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Patek Philippe Nautilus Retrospective Chapter 1 The Nautilus sports watch has become an unexpected star in Patek Philippe’s catalog. Released in the 1970s to tap into the new and growing trend for luxury sports watches, the Nautilus' steel construction, minimalist dial and unconventional styling were significantly different from any other watch made by Patek Philippe to date. The renowned Swiss watchmaker, known for its range of precious metal dress watches and complicated timepieces, commissioned Gerald Genta to design its first steel sports watch, a collaboration that proved to be highly successful.

After more than forty years of development, the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch has become a highly collectible watch and a well-deserved hype watch. This retrospective will be divided into four main chapters, which will provide an in-depth exploration of the history, evolution and collectability of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. We’ll discuss all the models in the range so far, detailing all metals, sizes and complication options.

In this first chapter of the Patek Philippe Nautilus retrospective, we will cover the first two decades of the series, from its debut in 1976 to 1996.


Understanding the Patek Philippe Reference Code
Before we look at the history and evolution of the Nautilus, it’s worth a quick refresher on how to read a Patek Philippe reference number.

/: If the first 4 numbers are followed by a "/", it means that the Patek Philippe watch is equipped with a metal bracelet (instead of a leather strap)
A: Acier, French, meaning stainless steel
J: Jaune, the French word for yellow, like gold
JA: Jaune Acier gold and stainless steel
G: Gris, which means gray in French, is the code for platinum.
P: Platine, French for platinum
Understanding these codes will make it easier for you to understand all the variations of Nautilus.

Nautilus 3700 "Jumbo" Introduction
In 1976, Patek Philippe launched a new model called Nautilus. The Nautilus is a response to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which debuted just four years ago. In fact, both watches were designed by Gerald Genta. According to Gerald Genta, he sketched the design for the Nautilus in five minutes in a restaurant during the Basel trade fair (later known as Baselworld). Then prototypes were made in my own studio.

The first Nautilus model was the 3700, nicknamed the "Jumbo". Nautilus Ref. The 3700 Jumbo has the following features:

The 42mm case is 7.6mm thick (measured from 10 to 4 o'clock) and is water-resistant to 120 meters
The porthole-shaped box has two "ears" on either side of the box, similar to the hinges of a ship's window
The patented case structure consists of a solid monolithic center with the movement inserted on the dial side
On top of the central case is a second module consisting of a rounded octagonal bezel, sapphire crystal, gaskets and case “ears”
The case is paired with an integrated bracelet, consisting of an H-shaped outer link and a central rectangular part with rounded corners. Patek Philippe made two versions of the bracelet: early models were equipped with a wider, larger bracelet, while later versions were equipped with a narrower, tapered bracelet.
Blue-black dial with horizontal grooves, a pair of baton hands in the center indicating hours and minutes, and a date window at 3 o'clock. There is no second hand.
The three-dimensional hour markers and chiming hands are coated with luminous coating and can be clearly seen in low light conditions.
The case houses the ultra-thin self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 920 movement, renamed Patek Philippe Caliber 28-255c

The original Nautilus Ref. 3700 was launched in stainless steel in 1976 (reference 3700/1A) and remained in existence until 1990. However, Patek Philippe does make other metal versions of the 42mm Nautilus “Jumbo” model. 3700 pieces, including two-tone, yellow gold and one unique platinum piece.


Below are all the variations of the Nautilus "Jumbo" ref. 3700:
Nautilus 3700/1A: stainless steel with larger bracelet
Nautilus 3700/11A: stainless steel with narrow tapered bracelet
Nautilus 3700/1JA: Stainless steel and gold, with larger bracelet
Nautilus 3700/11JA: Stainless steel and yellow gold with narrower tapered bracelet
Nautilus 3700/1J: yellow gold (also available in some diamond-set versions) with larger bracelet
Nautilus 3700/11J: yellow gold (also available in some diamond-set versions) with narrower tapered bracelet
Nautilus 3700/1G: white gold, with larger bracelet
Nautilus 3700/11G: white gold with narrow tapered bracelet
Nautilus 3700/1P: platinum with diamond hour markers; only one example known to exist
Of all the vintage Patek Philippe Nautilus models, the 3700 “Jumbo” is the most collectible as it was the first reference that launched the series.

Introduction to the Lady Nautilus
The chic yet casual nature of the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeals not only to men; Women also became interested in ultra-luxe sporty styles, so manufacturers introduced models specifically designed for women.

In 1980, Patek Philippe launched the women's Nautilus ref. 4700/51, with a 27 mm case and a quartz movement inside. The following year, 1981, Patek Philippe released the slightly larger Nautilus ref. 3900 with a 33mm case and a quartz movement. This model is not marketed specifically as a women's Nautilus model, but rather as a unisex model.